Suspension Techniques Sway Bar Upgrade

FRONT

Here is the 1-1/8" front sway bar. It is much bigger than the stock one. More importantly, it works better.
Changing the front sway bar is one of the most noticeable improvements you can make to the suspension.


Here is the stock bar. (Front splash pan removed)
To remove the sway bar, simply disassemble both end links at the control arms then unbolt the U clamps at the frame bushing mounting points... easy.

  
Old vs. New.  You can see the difference in end links and frame bushings. Here are the subtle points:


Rust was hiding under this plate.


Yup, the metal was very fatigued and bent when removing. The tired bushings also were worse for wear and tear.


The new bushings and bar must be greased and placed on the sway bar before mounting. Placing them 25" on center while
aligning on bar helps.
Note, the dip in the bar is on the lower side, and the split in the new bushing is oriented towards the rear of the car.


Once the new frame bushing plates are bolted in place (loosely), connect the sway bar (loosely) .


Here it is again for comparison. (hefty hefty hefty... whimpy whimpy whimpy)


Next, install the end links (loosely).

Notes:

nut
cup washer (down)
bushing (down)
sway bar
bushing (up)
cup washer (up)
spacer
cup washer (down)
bushing (down)
control arm
bushing (up)
cup washer (up)
bolt head


There is a cup built into the control arm.

For final assembly:


Here is the disappointing problem with the Suspension Techniques Sway Bar kits.....end links... the spacer is too short and the tie rod hits the 
sway bar. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

 

REAR

The 7/8" rear sway bar is bigger.... but it is more difficult to install and has less noticeable effect when driving compared to the front sway bar.


Here is a view of the rear sway bars end link.


Here is a view of the frame bushing. It is coated with anti-seize (and some kind of rubberized under coating).
Wire brushing the nut helps in disassembly.


A view of a the lower end link to rear control arm connection. It is coated with anti-seize and is ready for removal.


Once the end links are removed, the frame bushings can be removed. Their lower plate has a tab on the front and a bolt hole on the back.
The plate functions as a lever that sandwiches the bushing and bar in place.
Removing the bar requires lowering the exhaust ~ 3"-4" and some Houdini tricks (no comments on this part except "Good Luck!")

 


Old vs. New. Note the notch in the red frame bushing. There is a corresponding "bump" in the frame mount.
Important: When installing the frame bushing with the notch up and forward, there are actually two possible orientations which are different.
The easiest way to get the orientation is to install the bushing with the slit towards the rear of the car.


Now the fun begins!  If you just enjoyed removing  the old bar and getting the new one in place, you will certainly enjoy this:

Remember, the bushing's notch is front and top while the slit is middle rear

Next, install the end links.
Notes:

nut
cup washer (down)
bushing (down)
sway bar
bushing (up)
cup washer (up)
spacer
cup washer (down)
bushing (down)
control arm
bushing (up)
cup washer (up)
bolt head

Final Assembly:

Now get out there and cut up some roads!!!!!! :)


 

 

 

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